Pin It Years ago, I stumbled into a small harbor restaurant in Reykjavik on the greyest afternoon, rain hammering the windows. The chef ladled out this stew—so creamy it seemed to glow—and I watched it warm someone's frozen hands around the table beside mine. I've been chasing that memory ever since, learning that the best Icelandic fish stew isn't about fancy technique; it's about letting good fish, butter, and potatoes speak for themselves.
I made this for my partner on a Sunday when neither of us had left the kitchen much—just cooking, tasting, talking. There's something about stirring a pot together that softens the edges of a quiet day. By the time we sat down, the whole apartment smelled like butter and sea salt, and somehow we'd already decided it would become a winter tradition.
Ingredients
- Cod or haddock fillets (500 g / 1 lb): Look for fillets that are firm and smell clean, like the ocean. Avoid anything with a fishy odor—that's a sign it's past its prime.
- Butter (60 g / 4 tbsp): Use good quality butter; it's the foundation of the creamy base and deserves to be something you'd eat on its own.
- Whole milk (500 ml / 2 cups): This is what makes the stew feel silky without being heavy.
- Heavy cream (100 ml / ⅓ cup + 1 tbsp): A small amount goes a long way—it's there to enrich, not overwhelm.
- Potatoes (500 g / 1 lb): Waxy potatoes work best because they hold their shape while still becoming tender and creamy.
- Onion (1 medium): Finely chop it; the smaller pieces dissolve into the broth and add sweetness.
- Fresh parsley and chives (2 tbsp each): Fresh herbs scattered on top bring brightness and cut through the richness at the last moment.
- Bay leaf, salt, white pepper, nutmeg: The bay leaf flavors the fish poaching water, while a whisper of nutmeg adds something you won't quite name but will absolutely taste.
Instructions
- Cook the potatoes first:
- Cut them into small cubes and simmer in salted water until they're tender but not falling apart, about 12–15 minutes. This takes less time than the fish and butter base, so you can drain and set them aside while you move on.
- Poach the fish gently:
- Place fillets in a saucepan with just enough water to cover, add a bay leaf and salt, then let them simmer until they're opaque and flake easily (6–8 minutes). Save that poaching liquid—it's liquid gold with subtle fish flavor.
- Build the base with butter and onion:
- Melt butter in a large pot over medium heat, then add the finely chopped onion. Stir until it softens and turns translucent, about 5 minutes—you're creating the aromatic foundation here.
- Bring it together:
- Add the cooked potatoes to the pot and use a potato masher to break them down lightly, leaving some chunks so the stew has texture. Flake the poached fish into large pieces and add it along with the reserved poaching liquid.
- Add the cream and milk slowly:
- Pour in the milk and cream, stirring gently and frequently over low heat until everything is warm and creamy. Keep the heat low—a boil will break the delicate emulsion and make it grainy.
- Season and finish:
- Taste as you go, adding salt, white pepper, and a pinch of nutmeg if you want something subtle and sophisticated. Stir in half the parsley and chives, leaving the rest to scatter over each bowl so they stay bright and fresh.
Pin It I remember my grandmother tasting this version of mine and nodding once, very quietly. She never said it was good, but she ate two bowls, and I watched her calm down in that way people do when food says what they can't. That's when I understood this stew isn't about impressing anyone—it's about feeding someone.
Why Simple Ingredients Matter Here
Icelandic cooking has never been about complexity. The country's food reflects what the ocean and land can offer without much fuss—and this stew is the perfect example. When you're working with just five or six main elements, each one has to pull its weight. The butter needs to be good, the potatoes need to be the right kind, and the fish needs to be fresh. There's nowhere to hide, which is exactly why this dish works.
The Art of Not Overthinking It
I've made this stew more complicated than it needs to be more times than I'd like to admit. I've added herbs I thought would be nice (they weren't), experimented with different fish (sometimes worse), and fussed over temperatures. The best versions have always been the ones where I followed the recipe straight through and trusted the process. The potatoes do their job, the fish does its job, and the cream brings everything into harmony.
Serving and Variations
Serve this stew hot in wide bowls, letting the creamy broth pool around the tender potatoes and fish. Dark rye bread on the side is traditional—something with a slight sweetness that plays against the salt and richness. If you want to lighten it, use only milk and skip the cream; if you want more depth, try smoked fish or a mix of white fish varieties. The stew actually tastes better the next day, as the flavors deepen and settle.
- For a lighter version, use milk alone and you'll still get something beautiful and comforting.
- Leftover stew reheats gently on the stovetop—never a high heat, just a warm whisper of heat until it's ready to eat again.
- Serve it alongside something dark and dense like rye bread, or keep it simple with just good butter and salt on the side.
Pin It This stew asks for nothing except to be made on a cold day and eaten with someone you care about. It's the kind of food that makes a kitchen feel like the warmest room in the house.
Recipe Q&A
- → What type of fish works best?
White fish such as cod or haddock are ideal for their mild flavor and tender texture after poaching.
- → How do I achieve the creamy texture?
Using a combination of milk, cream, and butter while gently heating ensures a rich and smooth consistency.
- → Can I substitute fresh herbs?
Fresh parsley and chives add brightness, but dill or thyme can also complement the flavors nicely.
- → Is there a way to make it lighter?
Omit the cream and use only milk to reduce fat while maintaining creaminess.
- → What side dishes pair well with this stew?
Traditional Icelandic rye bread or crusty dark bread enhances the meal, perfect for soaking up the creamy sauce.
- → How is the fish cooked to avoid overcooking?
Poach the fish gently in water with a bay leaf until just opaque, then flake carefully into the stew.